Magazberd: An Armenian Fortress on the Turkish Side of the Araks
Six kilometers southwest of the great city of Ani, on the right bank of the Arpaçay River (ancient Akhurian), stands the little-known but historically significant fortress of Magazberd (Maghasberd). This border stronghold was built on tuff cliffs during the heyday of Bagratid Armenia and later passed to the Seljuks, the Georgians, the Khatunogullars, and finally to the Ottomans. Today, Magazberd is a restricted military zone right on the border with modern-day Armenia, and gaining access to its territory is practically impossible. But even from a distance, it makes a strong impression.
History of the Fortress
The possible origins of the fortifications on this rock date back to the 6th century, though the surviving structure largely belongs to the era of the Bagratid Kingdom of Armenia (885–1045). The fortress’s strategic importance rose sharply after Ani became the capital of the Armenian Kingdom in 961: Magazberd covered its southwestern approaches and controlled the crossing through the Arpachay Canyon.
After the fall of the Bagratids, the fortress changed hands between the Seljuks, the Kingdom of Georgia, and the Turkic Hatunogullari dynasty. In 1579, Magazberd was captured by the Ottoman Empire and rebuilt. An inscription on the northern gate attests to this: the reconstruction took place under Sultan Murad III. An Ottoman garrison held the fortress until the mid-19th century, after which it was abandoned and fell into ruin.
Modern archaeological work began in 2004–2005: excavations revealed the remains of “Old Magazberd”—an entire city quarter located approximately 100 meters above the river, featuring a city wall, cylindrical, rectangular, and horseshoe-shaped towers, and the ruins of churches. This led to the conclusion that the fortress was not merely a garrison area, but a fully-fledged fortified city.
Architecture and What to See
Walls and three large towers
The structure is built of tuff—a light-colored volcanic rock characteristic of the region, warm in the sun and resistant to weathering. The foundation of the fortification consists of three large towers, which have largely survived to this day. The curtain walls between them are partially destroyed, but the outline is clearly visible.
Ottoman inscription on the northern gate
An inscription from 1579 remains at the northern entrance, recording repairs carried out during the reign of Sultan Murad III. This is a rare instance where Ottoman epigraphy is clearly integrated into an earlier Armenian structure.
Internal structures
Inside the fortress perimeter, the remains of stone residential buildings, several chapels, a palace, a bathhouse, and a large square cistern are visible. This complex confirms that Magazberd functioned not only as a military outpost but also as a small princely center.
Old Magazberd
Discovered in the mid-2000s, “Old Magazberd” is a separate fortified quarter on a rocky terrace. Its walls feature various types of towers (cylindrical, rectangular, horseshoe-shaped), and the remains of churches have been found in the masonry. This is a rare example of an Armenian border town from the 10th–11th centuries on the territory of modern-day Turkey.
Interesting facts
- Magazberd is located virtually on the border with the Republic of Armenia and falls within the first border zone: tourist access to the ruins themselves is closed.
- It has survived better than some of the structures in Ani itself: Magazberd’s tuff towers remain almost entirely intact to this day.
- The fortress survived the reigns of the Bagratids, Seljuks, Georgians, Khatunogullars, and Ottomans—a rare combination for a single monument.
- The discovery of “Old Magazberd” in the 2000s changed perceptions of the fortress: it turned out to be a small fortified town rather than a separate fort.
- The nearest settlement to the ruins is the Kurdish village of Üçbölük; it serves as a landmark on topographic maps.
How to get there
The fortress is located in Kars Province, near the village of Üçbölük, southwest of the ruins of Ani. Coordinates: 40°28′31″ N, 43°32′30″ E. The nearest major city is Kars (about 50 km), and the nearest airport is Kars Harakani (KSY).
It is generally not possible to drive up to the ruins themselves: the entire strip along the Arpachay River is part of a restricted military zone near the border with Armenia. Permits to visit must be obtained separately and are rarely issued to tourists. In practice, most travelers are limited to viewing Magazberd from distant points along the road from Ani toward Üçbölük or from the Ani Plateau itself across the canyon.
Tips for travelers
The main advice is to manage your expectations realistically. You will almost certainly not be able to enter the fortress itself: this is a border zone, and attempting to approach without permission risks trouble with the military. Bring binoculars or a telephoto lens—and treat Magazberd as part of the Ani landscape, its “distant outpost.”
The best time to visit is late spring and early fall. In winter, the plateau below Ani is swept by icy winds, and temperatures drop well below freezing; in summer, days can be hot, but evenings are cool. Fall offers the best light for the tuff and the Arpachay Canyon.
Do not photograph military installations, antennas, or border guards. If your goal is to understand the context of Magazberd, be sure to combine your visit with a walk through the ruins of Ani themselves: only then will you get the full picture of the Armenian capital and its defensive belt.
From Kars, it’s easy to plan a day trip: Kars Kalesi (the city fortress and the Cathedral) in the morning, Ani after lunch, and a scenic stop on the way toward Magazberd. A day like this requires a car: there is virtually no public transportation to this border zone.
